Conversations with a Chiropractor

“Well, the symptoms you’re describing to me are definitely in line with whiplash associated disorder, but they should have subsided within about 4 weeks. Since you’re injury was 6 weeks ago, that tells me there are other factors at play.”

6 weeks ago I took a really lame fall skiing and cranked my neck around enough to give me a bit of whiplash. A couple of visits to the physio and my Chiropractor in the city and I figured I was sorted. The pain and tightness subsided during the aforementioned 4-week period and I was back on my way.

Last week however, my neck flared back up and throughout the day, pain and tightness wrapped its way around my neck. I’ve recently moved out into a small town, and have started seeing a nearby chiropractor (“nearby” here defined as: in the town and hour and a half away, which is still closer than the city) who treats a lot of other climbers and mountain athletes.

After a full assessment, it was determined that being a climber has predisposed me to certain strength imbalances that are lending to aggravation of my injured neck muscles. If you are a climber, maybe this sounds familiar. I know I’ve written about this before, but balance is so important to maintain in the body, I don’t feel it can be said enough.

A common issue in the climbing athletes treated by my chiro is winging scapula, formed by a strength imbalance in the trapezius muscle. Upper and mid fibre traps are over developed giving the “Helga the shot putter” look as my chiro put it. Upper fibre traps, those highly developed shoulder muscles seen on climbers, are not supposed to develop like that.  Weak lower fibre traps cause the scapula to wing away from the body when you are hanging on one arm, and instead of carrying body weight through the scapula and into the ribs (strong ring structure) force is transferred into the upper traps and into the clavicle (weak structure). This is why separated clavicles are a common injury in the climbing community.

Weak lower fibre traps combined with weak serratus anterior (another scapular stabilizer) also cause a hyper-khyphosis (exaggerated curvature of the upper spine) which means that in order to look straight forward, it’s necessary to gut the chin forward, causing a cervical hyper-lordosis (exaggerated curvature of the neck). This means that the weight of the head is forward of the neck causing strain on the small stabilizing muscle of the neck.

It’s not as easy as simply correcting posture though. After years of strength imbalance, the brain forgets how to fire the lower traps, and they must re-learn their job. Exercises that isolate the lower traps are important to correct the issues.

Once Lower traps have increased in strength, the scapula will move along the rib cage instead of winging out, meaning that the force placed on the scapula from hanging on an arm will be transferred into the strong rib cage structure instead of into smaller, weaker joints and structures.

Battling strength imbalances is a tough job, but it’s important if one wants to maintain their body for years to come. Good posture, efficient motions and maintaining proper balance in the body will help to keep joints and muscles moving the way they should.

Climb on, but try to use your lower traps properly.

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Injury recovery and the importance of mental training

 I had the unfortunate experience of suffering a rather serious climbing fall last year which put me out of commission for most of the summer season and into the fall. Having recently been able to resume outdoor climbing, I’ve found that my biggest barrier has been dealing with a paralyzing fear of falling. Once I recovered physically (thanks in no small part to my wonderful Chiropractor) I worked hard to regain and surpass the strength I had lost in my time off the wall.

Mental training however has been far more powerful than any level of physical work I have done. Mental training is an often understated component of any athlete’s training regime, but it is paramount to creating a well rounded, capable athlete, no matter what the sport. The key components in mental training include developing confidence while being cognizant of the overconfidence line, developing an understanding of one’s physical limitations and barriers, developing an understanding of how one’s body interplays with the elements around it and learning to create a state of mental calm during times of stress.

Each person is different when it comes to developing mental strength, and it is important that each individual determine what method works best for them. The important thing is that athletes learn how to assess where they are physically and mental, begin to harness their thoughts and direct them in meaningful directions and work to push the boundaries of their confidence without overstepping them.

The importance of measureable, attainable goals cannot be stressed enough. Being able to have definitive marker points to gauge ones progress is a key element to any training program and setting mental goals is no different. Personally, I am working to build back my leading confidence. Before my injury, I was leading 4 grades higher than when I started back leading. My strength has increased greatly over the last several months, and in fact I am top roping 2 grades higher than last summer, but the lack of confidence in my ability,and fear of failing to complete a move still cause me to freeze up on the wall. My goal is to be back leading confidently at my pre-fall grade by the end of the season.

Personally I’ve found visualization techniques to be very helpful. Similar to when projecting a route, visualizing the successful completion of a hard move, or visualizing clipping into a piece of pro helps to focus my energy and keeps me from over thinking my situation. It’s when I let myself flashback to the pain of impact that I end up in trouble. I’ve been able to use visualization technique both on and off the wall.

Creating controlled fall situations can also help with confidence recovery. Knowing that falling and injury and not always paired in an important realization. I know it seems pretty basic, but having the experience of falling safely can do wonders for one’s leading confidence. Using a belayer you trust, taking falls is a good exercise to prove to the climber that falling In my opinion, mental training is just as important as strength or technical training.

The human body has an incredible capacity for performance. So often it is our mental faculties that hold us back. Learning to control your state of mind, knowing your limitations and pushing them is the only way to perform at the level you as an athlete want to be at.