I had the unfortunate experience of suffering a rather serious climbing fall last year which put me out of commission for most of the summer season and into the fall. Having recently been able to resume outdoor climbing, I’ve found that my biggest barrier has been dealing with a paralyzing fear of falling. Once I recovered physically (thanks in no small part to my wonderful Chiropractor) I worked hard to regain and surpass the strength I had lost in my time off the wall.
Mental training however has been far more powerful than any level of physical work I have done. Mental training is an often understated component of any athlete’s training regime, but it is paramount to creating a well rounded, capable athlete, no matter what the sport. The key components in mental training include developing confidence while being cognizant of the overconfidence line, developing an understanding of one’s physical limitations and barriers, developing an understanding of how one’s body interplays with the elements around it and learning to create a state of mental calm during times of stress.
Each person is different when it comes to developing mental strength, and it is important that each individual determine what method works best for them. The important thing is that athletes learn how to assess where they are physically and mental, begin to harness their thoughts and direct them in meaningful directions and work to push the boundaries of their confidence without overstepping them.
The importance of measureable, attainable goals cannot be stressed enough. Being able to have definitive marker points to gauge ones progress is a key element to any training program and setting mental goals is no different. Personally, I am working to build back my leading confidence. Before my injury, I was leading 4 grades higher than when I started back leading. My strength has increased greatly over the last several months, and in fact I am top roping 2 grades higher than last summer, but the lack of confidence in my ability,and fear of failing to complete a move still cause me to freeze up on the wall. My goal is to be back leading confidently at my pre-fall grade by the end of the season.
Personally I’ve found visualization techniques to be very helpful. Similar to when projecting a route, visualizing the successful completion of a hard move, or visualizing clipping into a piece of pro helps to focus my energy and keeps me from over thinking my situation. It’s when I let myself flashback to the pain of impact that I end up in trouble. I’ve been able to use visualization technique both on and off the wall.
Creating controlled fall situations can also help with confidence recovery. Knowing that falling and injury and not always paired in an important realization. I know it seems pretty basic, but having the experience of falling safely can do wonders for one’s leading confidence. Using a belayer you trust, taking falls is a good exercise to prove to the climber that falling In my opinion, mental training is just as important as strength or technical training.
The human body has an incredible capacity for performance. So often it is our mental faculties that hold us back. Learning to control your state of mind, knowing your limitations and pushing them is the only way to perform at the level you as an athlete want to be at.